In 2012, Macklemore’s hip hop hit “Thrift Shop” was met with widespread praise for the encouragement of making environmentally and financially responsible shopping choices. With the catchy lyrics, “I’m gonna pop some tags, only got 20 dollars in my pocket”, the artist expresses glee of finding affordable and accessible second-hand clothing. However, over a decade later, the perception of charity shops has shifted significantly. The change of heart was induced by rising prices, environmental concerns, and an increasingly profit-driven approach within the industry. 

Yet, these factors did not emerge spontaneously: according to the 2024 Thrift Industry Report, 40% of Gen Z consumers are thrifters and 60% of the same group purchase second-hand clothing at least once a month. This upward trajectory is estimated to continue growing, potentially driving up costs and further altering the landscape of second-hand shopping. While the economic aspect plays a role, it is of minor weight in comparison with the ecological risks associated with current shopping habits. Therefore, it is crucial to address the less-discussed downsides of charity shops and promote conscious spending habits to mitigate potential harm and foster more sustainable practices. 

Decline in quality and increase of waste

The growth of fast fashion production and overconsumption habits has led to a significant influx of clothing donations to second-hand shops. Unfortunately, as a result of the fast paced manufacturing process of these garments, there is a decrease in quality, resulting in items that wear out quickly and are less suitable for resale. Rachel Heijne, the director of Kringloop Nederland, has stated that “the quality of the items is really bad. These are clothes that break after a few washes. You can’t sell them in the thrift store.” A 2023 study published by the Government of the Netherlands highlights this issue, showing that in 2018, 84% of used textiles collected in the Netherlands were exported. Among these, 53% were deemed suitable for rewearing, 33% were recycled, and 14% were non-recyclable and non-renewable. This growing trend of unsellable garments worsens the problem of textile waste. 

Export pollution

The majority of garments in charity shops are either unsellable or unwearable, and are therefore exported to certain destinations. According to The Guardian, only 20% of donated clothes are sold locally, while the remainder is delivered to countries like Ghana,the world’s leading importer of second-hand clothing. Although the donations contribute to the promotion of reuse through second-hand markets, it nevertheless disturbs the local waste management systems, causing pollution. The unwanted clothes reach illegal dumps and clog drainage systems, eventually flowing into the Odaw river, Korle Lagoon and the sea, where they wash up onto the beaches. The European Environment Agency reported that EU exports of used textiles increased from around 550,000 tonnes in 2000 to almost 1.7 million tonnes in 2019, raising concerns about the management of these textiles in importing countries.

Environmental impact of processing and distribution

The share of clothes that ends up in thrift stores also requires ecological consideration. To prepare these items for resale, they need to be transported, cleaned, processed and sorted. Along all of these steps, energy is consumed, relying on fossil fuels to power machinery vehicles. This ultimately contributes to carbon emissions and air pollution. Additionally, the chemicals used to treat and sanitize the clothing include abrasive cleaners, such as disinfectants and bleaches, which pollute the water and cause harm to the aquatic ecosystems. On top of the environmental damage that some thrift shops cause, they also practise unethical labor policies, such as low wages. They often hide behind words like “charity” or “donations”, despite being for-profit and rely on donations from people to minimize their inventory costs.

So what is the verdict?

Nonetheless, while retaining certain flaws, thrift stores remain the most sustainable way to acquire and repurpose clothing. The aim of this article is not to solely show the negative side of second-hand shops or discourage the customers from supporting them. Instead, this discussion seeks to reiterate the importance of mindful consumption, as even the eco-friendly alternatives are not that green. Therefore, consumers should think twice before making purchases and consider C2C platforms, like Vinted or eBay. These companies bypass the carbon-intensive processing and distribution systems that many charity shops depend on, offering a more direct and environmentally conscious way to exchange goods.

Further reading:

Johnson, S. (2024, February 8). ‘It’s like a death pit’: how Ghana became fast fashion’s dumping ground. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2023/jun/05/yvette-yaa-konadu-tetteh-how-ghana-became-fast-fashions-dumping-ground: Taking a Second Look at Second-Hand Shops: Re-evaluation of the Sustainability and Ethics of Thrift Stores Ministerie van Algemene Zaken. (2024, January 23). Destinations of Dutch used textiles. Report | Government.nl. https://www.government.nl/documents/reports/2024/02/02/destinations-of-dutch-used-textiles: Taking a Second Look at Second-Hand Shops: Re-evaluation of the Sustainability and Ethics of Thrift Stores The Ethics of Thrifting | Mercer Street. (n.d.). https://wp.nyu.edu/mercerstreet/2022-2023/the-ethics-of-thrifting/: Taking a Second Look at Second-Hand Shops: Re-evaluation of the Sustainability and Ethics of Thrift Stores